A beautiful happy dog, vital, of brilliant and clever expression is not only the result of careful selection and study of his parents' pedigree: an important share depends on how we brought up and took care of our friend.
There are three basic facts that lead us to a healthy and beautiful Saint Bernard: feeding, hygiene
and physical exercise. If we are very good at one of these basic facts
but neglect another one, the dog will suffer from it, at it will be difficult
for him to become the beautiful subject we dreamed of when we purchased
the puppy.Among other topics, in this chapter we'll discuss possible Saint Bernard's health problems, visiting the vet, and we'll explain how to behave if the dog isn't well: but remember that by combining a good diet, correct hygiene and a proper amount of motion (appropriately to each age of the dog), the chance you'll have of consulting the "health" page (while waiting for your vet) will be reduced to a minimum.
If he comes from fair blood-lines without hereditary faults (as all the puppies from a good breeding) and if the master will take proper care of him, the Saint Bernard will proove to be an exceptionally robust and rustic dog, who doesn't fear bad climates nor the hardest life conditions. He'll be able to work for hours without feeling fatigue, remain under the snow without suffering consequences... and will never get ill.
This will happen only if he has had the precise cares and attentions he needs. Nor too little (as sometimes happens because of lack of time or shallowness on behalf of the master), nor too much (as some spoiled dogs, who are fed out of love on biscuits and chocolate).
As far as feeding is concerned, we must always remember the dog is not a child: even if he behaves like one, imploring us with his irresistible look when we're eating ice-cream or a slice of cake, we must bear in mind that his digestive system is different from man's, and that certain treats (such as chocolate) are textually poison to him.
Hygiene is of same importance as feeding: a neglected coat can become a great habitat for parasites (which can carry very serious illnesses), dirty ears can favour otitis and so on.
The Saint Bernard often lives in the countryside, therefore he's at a greater risk of infiltration of parasites, for example, in his ears or between his fingers: only accurate daily hygiene will allow us to detect them immediately and spare the dog from dangerous and achy infections. Failing to clean and brush the dog regularly, we could cause him damage similar to which he would have if we forgot to feed him.
Last thing, let's remember the Saint Bernard is selected and built for motion: his muscles, bones, heart and lungs are born for work.
As all giants, he also needs his rest: but he is no "plantigrade" and he is not a dog moving and running harms. The important thing to bear in mind is the basic relation age-physical exercise: a growing, young or older, puppy is very delicate (whereas the adult dog is not delicate at all) and can't ever be overstrained.
Small and older puppies (three to eight months old) must be fed three times a day: breakfast and dinner will be the most complete meals, while lunch can be just a light meal. You should monitor the quantity (that should be determined upon the weight and general conditions of the dog), but most of all the quality of the food.
FEEDING AN OLDER PUPPY |
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Besides calcium
excess, it is very nocuous for young dogs (up to twelve months)
the excess of protein, fat and sugar: as a matter of fact these
substances make thicker the growing cartilage, which favours micro-fractures
which are the pre-condition to osteochondrosis of the shoulder,
knee and tarsus.
It has also been proved an over-developed muscular mass, at an age the skeleton ossification is not yet completed, is one of major causes of dysplasia. An older Saint Bernard puppy should be a slim dog, even... unhandsome. Only from a not to good looking puppy you can get a beautiful and healthy adult. Alimentary "recovery" should begin only at twelve months of age, when you should shift to nourishment full of proteins and fat to recover from muscular atrophy: at this age, however, calcium must be mantained low in the food. |
As far as the type of
food, dry food is the most adviseble, because it is impossible to reach
the same balance from a home cooked meal: nowadays 90% of breeders all
over the world adopt dry food.
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IDEAL DIET FOR THE GROWTH PERIOD |
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The following table
displays indicatively the advisable rations of food in relation
to age and the proper weight according to sex of the dog: but is
important to agree upon the ideal diet of each dog with the breeder,
the vet or somebody who knows the breed well.
At nine moths you should shift to
two meals a day: the male should weight 60-65 kg, the female 50-55
kg. For each meal they should be given 400-450 g of dry food. Liquid
should be added to the food, to make it less dry, an hour before
being given.
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BAND CALCIUM INTEGRATORS FOR SAINT BERNARD PUPPIES!
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A lot of people
(and, alas, a lot of veterinarians) believe a large size dog needs
to be "fed on" calcium, perhaps even parenterally. Big mistake.
A calcium excess causes the calcification of the carilages of growth and therefore blocks, instead of favouring, dog's growth and development. As giant dogs have a very slow development, their skeleton needs more time do ossify, an for all the time it remains cartilagineous it is litterally at risk if the organism assumes more calcium than it should. Bottom line: calcium should be given only through food, and in moderate amounts. The ideal relation seems to be of 1%, therefore all dog-food on the market has enough of it to satisfy the puppy's needs (and many even exceed it). |
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FEEDING AN ADULT DOG |
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An adult dog has no particular alimentary problems.
As the Saint Bernard is a dog of gigantic size, naturally he eats
a lot: but you shouldn't think he eats like... a lion or a panther.
By establishing a relation between his weight and daily supplies
needs, you'll see a greater size dog needs less food than a medium
size one, as the smaller one moves more hence burns more calories.
Of course the food must always be of best quality and of the proper type for the dog's activities: a sedentary adult (as the one living free in the garden) should not be overloaded with energy, while work-type dogs, in particular if living in very cold environments, should be fed on a diet rich of proteins and fat, and the same goes for pregnant or suckle females. The latter ones should be fed on a diet very rich of calcium, with eventual integrators aside from the usual meals. As for somministration we advise you to consult the paragraph about stomach torsion ( see specific pathologies of the breed ). |
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FEEDING AN OLD DOG |
The old dog will have to be fed on a progressively lower
calorie and protein diet, therefore you could choose "light" or
"senior" food. Quantity should always be appropriate to the dog's
weight, age and activeness: as a matter of fact it is impossible
to establish a "basic-ration" that would suit any dog. |
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Who wishes to prepare
the dog's bowl by himself must be aware that home cooked food is
less valid than the industrial one.
A home cooked meal should contain proteins from meat (red or white) and entrails, carbohydrates from vegetables, cereals, dry bread, pasta or rice. Meat proteins can be replaced or combined, once or twice a week, with fish, eggs or cheese. |
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Milk is a complete
aliment rich of calcium, excellent for growing dogs: but unfortunately
not all dogs tolerate it.
The production of the lactacyd enzyme (which allows the digestion of milk) it is not the same for all subjects, and it decreases with age: it is therefore inadvisable for old dogs, while it is good for small and growing puppies, who can have it as long as they can assimilate it well. At the first signal of intestinal disturb once (diarrhea) it must be suspended from the dog's diet and replaced with other dairy products (yoghurt, unseasoned cheese) which, though they cost more, have the same properties of milk and are better tolerated. |  |
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Leftovers from our
table are absolutely forbidden (almost always too rich with fat
for a Saint Bernard), especially if containing herbs or spice.
Sweets are to be banned, they are very bad for us and even worse for dogs. Chocolate is extra dangerous: one or two quarters of a kilo could as much as kill a puppy. |
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CANNED FOOD |
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Humid food (so-called
"cans") are usually better liked by dogs than dry food: but careful,
most of it is water.
To serve a meal equal to 200 g of dry food you would need over a kilo of canned food: that implies a volume of food that would be, in the case of the Saint Bernard, very dangerous for the risk of stomach torsion. For a Saint Bernard, the can should be an emergency food when you are travelling, at shows or when it is impossible to find the usual kind of food. |